Village Teahouse in Coloane
By Lillian Fan

The piercing wind swiftly blew into my trousers to pores of my skin. Merciless it was, it struck a chill into my bones and I found it hard not to keep goose bumping. My lips were shivering and my teeth were crumbling, it was 10°C on a Sunday afternoon. In such a freezing cold day, it was no doubt, the best moment for a cup of hot cappuccino to warm up my stiff hands. While I was waiting, noises of kitchen work kept striking my ears, surprisingly making series of great beats with my trembles. Mr. Leong was smashingly stirring a cup of coffee. Many customers who come a long way to the Han Kei Teahouse, located in the Lai Chi Vun Village of Coloane, are attracted to this coffee of a reputation.


Leong's coffee, some people say is a legend of Macao, is made with intensive stirring of 400 times for each cup and costs for just MOP10. Watching the strengthened movement of his right hand as I came close to the open kitchen, he works proficiently well as he holds the cup with another scarred handicapped arm which looks like three dismembered parts being stitched together. He recalls, "My left hand was cut in an accident when I was a worker in a ship factory of the village. The doctor advised me to amputate the arm but I rejected. I cannot live without my left arm." After he recovered from his injury, he opened the Han Kei Teahouse to earn a living; customers were mainly workers from the ship factories who came for lunch after work. Although the ship industry has gradually disappeared in Coloane, Leong still continues to run this teahouse. Instead of losing customers, many tourists and locals are attracted by the charm of this little teahouse.


Leong revealed to me that the recipe of his coffee was taught by a motorcar racer who came to his teahouse six years ago. He says, "Using the most common brands of ingredients, it is not difficult to make good coffee if you know how to balance the right proportion of water, sugar, coffee powder and stirring strength. This is the secret to create a hand-made smooth and rich cream for an aromatic coffee." To many customers, his coffee is more surprisingly tasty because of all the hand-made efforts involved in making the most ordinary cup of coffee being served to every single customer, such efforts are priceless.


Seats are often full during weekends. Leong says that more people are coming because of curiosity and rising publicity. His teahouse became well-known when a celebrity from Hong Kong praised that his coffee tasted better than a grand hotel in Macao. There are customers coming from Hong Kong, mainland and locals, some men chatted friendly with him like an old friend. During the busiest weekend afternoons, his son helps him to stir the coffee while he works on three stoves at the same time, finishing food orders for customers.


Though Coloane is far from major prosperous areas, Leong still runs his business there, he says, "It is expensive to move out from Coloane. I simply cannot afford it and I choose to stay here." His teahouse has two floors where he and his family live upstairs.


Sitting in a teahouse which is built up of metals and woods, the taste of emulsified bubbles is such a satisfaction; it is different from normal teahouses with the identical taste and food. His coffee is served hot and is most famous for its hand-made stirring cream which tastes so smooth, and in order to taste the best flavor of the coffee, I need to drink it before it cools down to warm temperature. His coffee, sandwiches and noodles will not give way too, all have a home-made taste. The pork chop sandwich is a hot order and a favourite of mine!


Without luxurious decoration, I already find myself feeling contented. There are lots of dogs joining customers 'companion if they see you are eating, Leong says that those dogs are his neighbors' and to me it seems that the dogs are actually raised by their own. When I sit near the curtain, some dogs are standing on the top chair, wanting to jump down onto the floor. Some girls are scared, Leong just simply clasps his hands and the dogs go away. Actually the dogs are adorable, they do not afraid of people. A friend of mine recalls, "There is a little dog cutely looking at you with its adorable eyes, when you give them food, they will not leave until you give none. How clever they are!" I see people giving them bones of chicken wings and pork chops, the dog chew it well. I do the same to entice and capture them with my camera.


People who are trying to reach this little teahouse need to walk down on the Estrada de Lai Chi Vun, which is located next to the Coloane Custom, leading to where the ship industry in Macao used to be prosperous. Lots of abandoned ship factories are still there. The Han Kei Teahouse just stands in the Lai Chi Vun Village after these factories.


It sounds mysterious for people as they first heard about the existence of the village. "I have never thought of walking down this road, and could I have even imagined that there is a teahouse," said Mr Cheong, a mainland tourist who visits Coloane the second time. Phoebe Wong, a fresh graduate from the Culture and Heritage major in the Institute for Tourism Studies (IFT), says, "Lai Chi Vun is a place of surprise to me and I do really appreciate that the old town atmosphere has not vanished after so many years. Surely, I will visit Han Kei again and I am actually interested in living here when I retire, if luckily, this village can still exist as what I am seeing now."


The day turns dark and the clock is striking six. The teahouse closes at 6 pm every day, but customers are still coming. Leong's business seems always having a good time. When I arrived here, there were not enough waiters to serve the bulk customers, so I could not demand for quick orders. Though, the Han Kei Teahouse presents an old town atmosphere and creates a mystery of attraction for me to come again. If you have been keeping up bored of the hectic life in a busy city, it is a good idea to swap it for a moment of silence in this rural area of Coloane, indulging yourself for some time going back to the old Macao life, I think you will love it.